10th Doctor blue suit analysis, part 4 - lapels

Tenth Doctor Blue Suit Analysis


Part 4 - Lapels

One subtle difference between Tennant's first two (early style) blue suits was the relationship between the pinstripes on the collar and those on the lapel facing at the collar/lapel seam line (known as the "gorge line"); on one suit, the pinstripes aligned perfectly:

10th Doctor blue suit lapels
4x5 "The Poison Sky"


On the other, the pinstripes did not align at the collar/lapel seam line:

10th Doctor blue suit lapels
4x4 "The Sontaran Stratagem"


This was also true on the later version of the blue suits:

10th Doctor blue suit lapels
4x13 "Journey's End"
10th Doctor blue suit lapels
5x03 "The Waters of Mars"


Unlike the brown suit, the early blue suit's lapel facings were cut and sewn so that the edges of the lapel facings were parallel to, but not actually on, the fabric's pinstripes:

10th Doctor blue suit lapels
3x6 "The Lazarus Experiment"
10th Doctor blue suit lapels
3x7 "42"


However, on the later version of the blue suits, the lapel facings were cut and sewn in the same style as the brown suits', with the edges being both parallel to and actually on pinstripes.

10th Doctor blue suit lapels
4x5 "The Poison Sky"
10th Doctor blue suit lapels
Season 4 publicity photo
10th Doctor blue suit lapels
Season 4 publicity photo


As with the collar, this design evolution was, curiously, the reverse of what one might naturally expect; it makes sense that initially the blue suit would inherit the collar and lapel facing construction in regard to the pinstripes, then it would later diverge so that the collar and lapel facings were both cut between pinstripes (thus the two would be consistent stylistic matches with each other). 

In other words, it would've made sense to us for both the collar and lapel facing to have been constructed so the edges were on pinstripes (like the early brown suit), then for both to be constructed with the edges between pinstripes. 

Instead, it was something of a "mix and match" of collar and lapel styles with both the brown AND blue suits! 

The design evolution of both suits, chronologically, was something in the manner of the following: 
  • Early brown suit = collar edges on pinstripes, lapel facing edges on pinstripes
  • Early blue suit = collar edges angled, lapel facing edges between pinstripes
  • Later brown suit = collar edges angled, lapel facing edges on pinstripes
  • Middle blue suits = collar edges angled, lapel facing edges on pinstripes
  • Later blue suits = collar edges (straight) between pinstripes, lapel facing edges on pinstripes



And like the collar seam allowances, the lapel/lapel facing seam allowances were either ¼" or trimmed to ¼" after being sewn (probably to reduce bulk):

10th Doctor blue suit lapels
3x1 "Smith and Jones"
10th Doctor blue suit lapels
4x9 "Forest of the Dead"


Another diversion from the brown suits was that the blue suits were cut so that the center front edges of the jacket were on pinstripes.

10th Doctor blue suit lapels
3x1 "Smith and Jones"


Presumably, the center front of the jacket was on a pinstripe (as on the brown suits), but the different spacing of the pinstripes on the blue suit allowed for the center front edge to be on a pinstripe as well. 

At least, that's our guess!


10th Doctor blue suit analysis - collar
10th Doctor blue suit home
10th Doctor blue suit analysis - buttons

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