10 blue suit tutorial, jacket 8 - back assembly

Tenth Doctor Blue Suit Tutorial


Jacket, Step 8 - Back Assembly

Sew the jacket backs (piece C) together at the center back to the lower dot, taking care to match the pinstripes along the seam line. At the dot and for a few inches above it, the seam line should be directly on a pinstripe. 

Press the seam allowances open (but don't press the back vent yet).

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - back assembly


TIP: For those lowermost few inches of the center back seam, stitch directly on the matched pinstripes - "riding the pinstripe," so to speak. Once the seam is pressed open, the two sides will form what appears to be a single pinstripe, perfectly positioned between the others on each side, and it will be difficult to see the seam line even when viewed up close!
10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - back assembly
Your back assembly should look like this:
10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - back assembly
Press the back left vent under on the appropriate pinstripe.
10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - back assembly
(Brown suit pictured above)
Press the edge of the right vent under ⅝" (again, on the appropriate pinstripe).
10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - back assembly
(Brown suit pictured above)


Beginning about 1" above the dot, stitch over the previous stitch line to reinforce, then pivot at the dot and stitch to the end of the vent. Note that the left edge of the vent will extend ⅝" past the right edge. 

At the lower corner of the center back seam, clip the right seam allowance diagonally to the dot and press the vent to the left.

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - back assembly


Baste or sew the vent into place along its upper edge. Ordinarily this would probably be done over the previous stitch line, but in this case the back waist strap will cover the area entirely so just fasten it however you'd like (within reason, of course).


OPTIONAL: Interface your back waist strap (piece N) with a lightweight fusible. 


Fold the upper and lower (long) edges of the waistband under 1" and press.

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - back assembly
10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - back assembly


Position the back waist strap onto the back assembly along the alignment guides on the printed pattern. Note that your waist strap may extend slightly past the upper and lower alignment guides. 

Using your quilting/walking foot, edge-stitch the back waist strap into place along the upper and lower edges, and baste or sew it into place along the side edges. 

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - back assembly
10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - back assembly


At this point, the lower back seam line should be pressed open over a pinstripe, the back waist strap should hide the top of the vent, and the edge of the vent should be folded on a pinstripe, so the whole thing just looks beautiful!

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - back assembly


Sew the center back edges of your back stay (piece Q) together and press the seam allowances open. 

"Pink" the lower edge of your back stay assembly.

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - back assembly


Pin the back stay to the jacket back, matching neckline, shoulder, armscye, and side edges. It's important for the two layers to fit and drape identically, so if there's any discrepancy, just shift the muslin stay slightly until both drape and act as one. 

Baste or sew the back stay to the jacket back ½" from the neckline, shoulder, armscye, and side edges. 

Trim the back stay close to the stitch lines.

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - back assembly


The back stay helps prevent excessive tugging and strain on the garment fabric across the shoulder blades.


Your finished back assembly should look like this:

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - back assembly


10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - tailoring fronts
10th Doctor blue suit home
10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - fronts to back

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