10 blue suit tutorial, jacket 6 - left chest pocket

Tenth Doctor Blue Suit Tutorial


Jacket, Step 6 - Left Chest Pocket

If you haven't already, serge the edges of your left chest pocket pouch (piece I).

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


Fold the pocket vertically so the pinstripes (and pleat lines) are properly aligned. The folded edge should be on a pinstripe. 

Sew the two layers together just to the left of the second-to-right pinstripe, along the matched pleat line. 
10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


Unfold the pocket and press the pleat flat. The pinstripes on the folded edges of the pleat should be visible.

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


Press the top edge of the pocket under ⅝".

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


From the underside, topstitch the pocket hem into place ½" from the upper folded edge.

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


Press the side, and then bottom edges of the pocket under ⅝".

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


Position the pocket onto the left jacket front as indicated on the printed pattern, properly aligning the pinstripes on the pocket and jacket body. Note that only three of the four corners are specified, and the pinstripes will not properly align in the lower, outer corner; this is because the dart extends upward underneath the pocket pouch! 

Pin - or, better yet, thoroughly baste - the pocket pouch into place on the jacket body.

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


Using your quilting/walking foot, edge-stitch the pocket to the jacket body along the side and lower edges, reinforcing the stitches at the corners. 

Remove the basting stitching. 

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


OPTIONAL: Baste the pocket pouch to the jacket body to keep it from flapping around during the remainder of the construction process.


Place the left chest pocket pouch flap and facing (piece H) right sides together, matching pinstripes. 

Sew the pocket flap and facing together.

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


Trim the seam allowances as closely as possible at the corners, and to about ¼"along the side and lower edges.

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


Turn the pocket flap right-sides-out and press. 

Sew the flap closed ¼" from the top edges.

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


TIP: You may wish to employ David Coffin's point-turning technique for this pocket flap, for better results than those pictured above! (When I made this suit, I was not yet aware of this method, but I've since used it with good results!)



OPTIONAL: Serge the top edge of the pocket flap. 

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


Position the pocket flap on the jacket body as indicated on the printed pattern, facing upward and with the pinstripes properly aligned. 

Pin - or, better yet, thoroughly baste - the pocket flap into place.

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


Using your quilting/walking foot, sew the pocket flap to the jacket body ¼" from the edge (over the previous stitch line).

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


Press the pocket flap downward.

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


Using waxed thread, slip-stitch the pocket flap facing (the underside) to the jacket body beneath the serged edge, enclosing it, taking care to ensure the stitches are only go through the underside of the flap and are not visible on the right side!

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


Press the pocket flap back down, and your left chest pocket is finished!

10th Doctor blue suit tutorial - left chest pocket


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