October 20, 2018

FREE blue fabric shipping to Magnoli Clothiers!

As you probably know by now, I recently had a run of 10th Doctor blue suit fabric rewoven, directly from a swatch of original material provided by Louise Page herself!

While I had primarily intended the fabric to be for DIY types (like myself) to make their own replica suits, I’ve gotten a lot of inquiries from people wanting a custom suit made for them. 

I usually recommend bringing my 10th Doctor suit pattern to a local tailor, but I’ve seen some people on Instagram who’ve had some good results with online vendors. 

In fact, Thomas Dunn (“doctorwhocollector” on Instagram) actually sent his yardage of my rewoven blue fabric to Magnoli Clothiers to have his suit made, and they appear to have done a great job with it!

10th Doctor blue suit - rewoven fabric and Magnoli Clothiers tailoring

10th Doctor blue suit - rewoven fabric and Magnoli Clothiers tailoring
10th Doctor blue suit - rewoven fabric and Magnoli Clothiers tailoring

(Incidentally, Magnoli is in the process of updating his own replica blue suit fabric, and I’ve helped him hone it with some color/spacing/weave references. I’ve yet to see his final result with my own eyes, but it looks promising and is bound to be a huge improvement over the current/previous teal/red fabric.)

10th Doctor blue suit - Magnoli fabric swatches

In the mean time, though, I still have some of my rewoven blue fabric available – enough for about 20 suits, and after discussing the matter with Magnoli, we have a good option for those of you who want to have a suit made with my fabric!

Up until now, you’ve had to order the fabric + shipping, potentially pay customs fees when the fabric arrives, pay to ship the fabric to Magnoli’s tailors, have it shipped back, and potentially pay more customs fees when the finished suit arrives. 

However, I’m now willing to offer FREE shipping directly to Magnoli’s tailors, and he can have a suit made for you at a discounted price (including shipping) since you’d be providing the fabric! 

What this means for you, is that you save money on two international packages (one for the fabric sent to you, and another sending the fabric to Magnoli’s tailors) and potentially eliminate a customs fee!

10th Doctor blue suit - rewoven fabric and Magnoli Clothiers tailoring


This also eliminates weeks of transit times and the usual hazards of international shipping, like lost packages and delays, so you can be among this leading wave, one of the first people to finally have a proper blue suit! 

Simply use the promotional code MAGNOLI when checking out on Etsy, and I’ll send the fabric directly to him. 


(NOTE: You’ll still need to contact Magnoli Clothiers directly to arrange for the tailoring. Once I send his tailors the fabric, the ball’s in his court!) 

The fabric is still available all on its own, too, so you DIY types who want to make your own suit, my new/updated 10th Doctor suit pattern will be available soon! I’m currently in the process of field-testing it with my own suits, and it’s looking great so far (if I say so myself). 

It’s going to be a HUGE improvement over the previous version! 

Here are some teaser photos:

10th Doctor brown suit - sewing tutorial coming soon!
10th Doctor brown suit - sewing tutorial coming soon!


I’ll be posting regular progress photos on Facebook and Instagram, followed by entirely new sewing tutorials here on the blog. Subscribe to my “Costume Guide” e-mail newsletter (upper right) if you haven’t already for updates!


July 16, 2018

10th Doctor blue suit fabric - REWOVEN!

As you may recall, last year I set out to dye Magnoli’s 10th Doctor blue fabric closer to the original colors, using a swatch of the screen-used blue fabric (generously provided by Louise Page herself!) as a reference, but despite something like 18 attempts, the results ultimately left something to be desired.

Dyeing the Magnoli blue fabric
My final custom-dyed contenders


Still determined to somehow reproduce a fabric more authentic to the colors of 10’s suit, and with the original shirting fabric no longer being available, it seemed I had basically two other options: help Magnoli update his blue fabric, and to actually have the fabric rewoven, myself.


Well, I figured that pursuing both courses of action would essentially double the chances for success – a definite “win” for the Doctor Who cosplay community, since people have been longing for authentic blue fabric for over a decade now! Odds are that at least one of us would get it right! 

So, after Magnoli expressed interest in updating his blue fabric, I’ve been helping him hone the fabric colors (etc.), using my swatch of the original fabric as a reference. 

His fabric update is in the works, and like you, I’m curious to see his final results; it should be a huge improvement!
Magnoli blue fabric update
Helping Magnoli update the blue fabric


As for my own reweave … Never having had fabric rewoven before, I was at something of a loss as to how to begin – past the obvious Googling, I mean – but I asked around for weaver recommendations, and Daniel Pawlik stepped up to the plate for me! 

He’d previously had some 11th Doctor shirting rewoven, which turned out fantastic (you can check it out here in his Etsy shop), and he wholeheartedly recommended his weaver. 

Well, fast-forward nearly nine months (fraught with numerous difficulties and delays neither of us had anticipated), and I finally – finally – have something we’ve all been wanting! 

I’ve had this particular iron in the fire for a long time now, and, well, see for yourself:

10th Doctor blue suit fabric reweave
Indoors, with flash
10th Doctor blue suit fabric reweave
Indoors, no flash
10th Doctor blue suit fabric reweave
Indoors, with flash
10th Doctor blue suit fabric reweave
Indoors, no flash


With no photo editing (except cropping, I mean), no filters – the “read” is almost perfect!


Here’s an outdoors photo comparison:

10th Doctor blue suit fabric reweave
Outside comparison


Here are some indoor comparison photos, with and without flash:

10th Doctor blue suit fabric reweave
Indoors, with flash
10th Doctor blue suit fabric reweave
Indoors, with flash
10th Doctor blue suit fabric reweave
Indoors, no flash
10th Doctor blue suit fabric reweave
Indoors, no flash
10th Doctor blue suit fabric reweave
Indoors, no flash
10th Doctor blue suit fabric reweave
Indoors, no flash


It’s not quite perfect; unfortunately, the stripes are 1mm too far apart. That was apparently the best the weaver could do, and I’ve been unable to shrink them any further.

However, I showed Louise Page some comparisons, and she offered her compliments on my replica fabric; what higher praise is there, right?!?



So, I have a limited quantity of this fabric available, and unfortunately, it’s unlikely that Daniel’s weaver will ever be willing to do another run of this fabric. 

There are other fish in the sea, of course, but for now, this is all there is! 

I’ve listed this fabric by-the-yard in my (Bad Wolf Costumes) Etsy shop, which you can check out here:


4 yards should be plenty for an entire suit; I’m 6’ tall, men’s size 42, and 4 yards is plenty for a suit, with quite a bit left over. 

For now, I’m limiting individual orders to 5 yards or less, because I want to make sure it’s available to all who want it for as long as possible, but it very well may go fast anyway, so I highly suggest ordering some ASAP if you’re interested! 



I’ve also temporarily discontinued my 10th Doctor suit pattern, because I’m in the process of updating it! 

The original version is still fine, if you have it already, but I’m improving the fit so it’s more of a Tennant-esque silhouette, and I’m updating the various alignment guides to coincide with this new blue fabric and Magnoli’s updated (2017) brown fabric.

I’ll also be heavily updating my 10th Doctor suit tutorials; I’ve learned a lot the past couple years and do things quite differently now than I did back then. 

I’ll post here once the updated pattern’s available (hopefully in a few weeks?), as well as once I’ve posted the updated sewing tutorials, but I suggest subscribing to my “Costume Guide” e-mail newsletter (upper right corner) for updates! 

In the meantime, you can go ahead and have your fabric ready to go once the updated pattern + tutorials are available!

https://www.etsy.com/listing/615057014/10th-doctor-blue-suit-fabric-lightweight


July 9, 2018

11th Doctor waistcoats - sewing pattern bundle!

I put together a new sewing pattern bundle that includes all three of my 11th Doctor waistcoat patterns, at a 20% discount!


All three patterns include men's sizes 34-52 and as always, they were meticulously drafted to be as faithful to the originals as possible. 

Free sewing tutorials for all three waistcoats are available here on the blog!

More exciting news is coming soon, so check back regularly and subscribe to my "Costume Guide" e-mail newsletter (upper right corner) for updates!
11th Doctor waistcoats pattern bundle
"The Holy Trinity"

July 2, 2018

11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat tutorial PDF added!

My 11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat tutorial is now available as a free PDF download!

I've added a download link to the 11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat tutorial contents, but you can also view/download the PDF via the direct link below:

11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat sewing tutorial PDF


(Note that because of the file size, you might not be able to view the PDF online; it may only work as a download.)

Subscribe to my "Costume Guide" e-mail newsletter (upper right corner) and be the first to hear about new sewing patterns, tutorials, videos, etc., plus save 10% on all Bad Wolf Costumes sewing patterns and pattern bundles!



June 25, 2018

11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat tutorial added!

My new 11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat sewing tutorial is now available here on the blog!

Check it out here, or simply click the "11th Doctor" tab above and select that waistcoat!

This free sewing tutorial includes:

  • A detailed list of everything you need to make your own "anniversary" waistcoat
  • Step-by-step instructions with HD photos and diagrams
  • Fitting tips

Although intended for use with my (Bad Wolf Costumes) waistcoat pattern, I also included some suggestions for drafting your own.

11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat tutorial

I also included notes for cutting and constructing your waistcoat to match the original waistcoat(s) worn by Matt Smith as closely as possible, in reference to the fabric's plaid patterns!

11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat tutorial
Original waistcoat (filming photo) on left, my replica made with this pattern/tutorial on right


This tutorial will be available as a free downloadable PDF soon, and I have some other exciting projects in the works I'll be sharing here, too!

Subscribe to my "Costume Guide" e-mail newsletter (upper right corner) and be the first to hear about new sewing patterns, tutorials, videos, etc., plus save 10% on all Bad Wolf Costumes sewing patterns and pattern bundles!


June 11, 2018

11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat pattern, now shipping!

My (Bad Wolf Costumes) 11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat pattern is now shipping! Thank you, everyone who pre-ordered!

https://www.etsy.com/listing/603345410/11th-doctor-anniversary-waistcoat-sewing

Free sewing tutorial (intended for use with this pattern) is coming soon, so stay tuned and subscribe to my "Costume Guide" e-mail newsletter (upper right corner) for updates!


11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat sewing pattern

May 28, 2018

11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat pattern, pre-order discount!

And now, to complete the trio of 11th Doctor waistcoat patterns, my (Bad Wolf Costumes) 11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat pattern is now available for pre-order, at a 10% discount!


It was meticulously drafted to be as faithful to the originals as possible and includes men's sizes 34-52. 

The pattern is printed on large-format paper and includes a copy of text-only instructions.
11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat sewing pattern

Here are some examples of my personal waistcoat that I made with this sewing pattern:
11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat sewing pattern
11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat sewing pattern
11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat sewing pattern
11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat sewing pattern


And here are a few photos with a generic dress shirt and the appropriate Budd bow tie:
11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat sewing pattern
11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat sewing pattern
11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat sewing pattern
11th Doctor "anniversary" waistcoat sewing pattern


This pattern will begin shipping on Monday, June 11, but you can pre-order it at a 10% discount here:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/603345410/11th-doctor-anniversary-waistcoat-sewing

A free sewing tutorial (intended for use with this pattern) is coming soon, so stay tuned!


May 14, 2018

11th Doctor velvet waistcoat sewing kit

I thought it would be a neat idea to put together an 11th Doctor "velvet waistcoat sewing kit," for those of you interested in making your own.

11th Doctor velvet waistcoat sewing kit


These are the exact same materials I used for my replica waistcoat, and this "sewing kit" is specifically intended for other DIY types. 
11th Doctor velvet waistcoat

It includes the following:

  • A copy of my velvet waistcoat sewing pattern

  • 1 yard of custom-dyed dark purple velvet

  • 1 yard of custom-dyed purple linen

  • 7 yards of black decorative trim (the largest size only needs about 6 yards, so this gives you some extra)

  • A set of 6 black passementerie buttons

The interfacing, lining, and back buckle are left to your personal preference. (I put my recommendations in the sewing tutorial here on the blog.) 

You can order this kit from our Bad Wolf Costumes Etsy shop: 



Subscribe to my "Costume Guide" e-mail newsletter (upper right corner) for more cool stuff!

May 7, 2018

11th Doctor velvet waistcoat tutorial PDF added!

My 11th Doctor velvet waistcoat tutorial is now available as a free PDF download!

I've added a download link to the 11th Doctor velvet waistcoat tutorial contents, but you can also view/download the PDF via the direct link below:

11th Doctor velvet waistcoat tutorial PDF


(Note that because of the file size, you might not be able to view the PDF online; it may only work as a download.)

My "anniversary" waistcoat pattern is coming soon!

Subscribe to my "Costume Guide" e-mail newsletter (upper right corner) and be the first to hear about new sewing patterns, tutorials, videos, etc., plus save 10% on all Bad Wolf Costumes sewing patterns and pattern bundles!



April 30, 2018

11th Doctor velvet waistcoat tutorial added!

My new 11th Doctor velvet waistcoat sewing tutorial is now available here on the blog!

Check it out here, or simply click the "11th Doctor" tab above and select that waistcoat!

This free sewing tutorial includes:

  • A detailed list of everything you need to make your own velvet waistcoat
  • Step-by-step instructions with HD photos and diagrams
  • Fitting tips

Although intended for use with my (Bad Wolf Costumes) waistcoat pattern, I also included some suggestions for drafting your own.
11th Doctor velvet waistcoat tutorial
This tutorial will be available as a free downloadable PDF soon, and my "anniversary" waistcoat pattern is coming soon as well!

Subscribe to my "Costume Guide" e-mail newsletter (upper right corner) and be the first to hear about new sewing patterns, tutorials, videos, etc., plus save 10% on all Bad Wolf Costumes sewing patterns and pattern bundles!



April 23, 2018

11th Doctor velvet waistcoat pattern, now shipping!

My (Bad Wolf Costumes) 11th Doctor velvet waistcoat pattern is now shipping! Thank you, everyone who pre-ordered!

https://www.etsy.com/listing/606260237/11th-doctor-velvet-waistcoat-sewing

Free sewing tutorial (intended for use with this pattern) is coming soon, so stay tuned and subscribe to my "Costume Guide" e-mail newsletter (upper right corner) for updates!


11th Doctor velvet waistcoat sewing pattern

April 9, 2018

11th Doctor velvet waistcoat pattern, pre-order discount!

My (Bad Wolf Costumes) 11th Doctor velvet waistcoat pattern is now available for pre-order, at a 10% discount!


It was meticulously drafted to be as faithful to the originals as possible and includes men's sizes 34-52. 

The pattern is printed on large-format paper and includes a copy of text-only instructions.
11th Doctor velvet waistcoat sewing pattern

Here are some examples of my personal waistcoat that I made with this sewing pattern:
11th Doctor velvet waistcoat sewing pattern
11th Doctor velvet waistcoat sewing pattern
11th Doctor velvet waistcoat sewing pattern
11th Doctor velvet waistcoat sewing pattern


And here are a few photos with the "Snowmen" bow tie and a "Nightmare in Silver"-esque dress shirt:
11th Doctor velvet waistcoat sewing pattern
11th Doctor velvet waistcoat sewing pattern
11th Doctor velvet waistcoat sewing pattern


This pattern will begin shipping on Monday, April 23, but you can pre-order it at a 10% discount here:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/606260237/11th-doctor-velvet-waistcoat-sewing

A free sewing tutorial (intended for use with this pattern) is coming soon, so stay tuned!


April 2, 2018

Dyeing the Magnoli Tenth Doctor Brown Suit Fabric Closer to the Original GAP Colors

As you may be aware, Magnoli Clothiers recently updated their 10th Doctor brown suit ("time suit") replica fabric, tightening the stripe spacing slightly to be more analogous to that of the original GAP trousers fabric.

http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/time-cotton-by-the-yard-p-382.html
However, while the stripe spacing was a welcome improvement, the colors of the updated fabric are now too light in comparison to the original GAP fabric. The older colors were actually a bit closer, although it was a bit too dark.


Here's a three-way comparison (in various lighting scenarios) between Magnoli's older brown fabric (top), the newer brown fabric (bottom), and a swatch of original GAP trousers fabric in the middle, in various lighting situations.

Magnoli 10th Doctor/GAP fabrics comparison (2018)
Magnoli 10th Doctor/GAP fabrics comparison (2018)
Magnoli 10th Doctor/GAP fabrics comparison (2018)
Magnoli 10th Doctor/GAP fabrics comparison (2018)


While it's easy to observe the improved stripe spacing, here's a color comparison between just the updated replica and original GAP fabrics:

Magnoli 10th Doctor/GAP fabrics comparison (2018)
Outdoors, sunlight
Magnoli 10th Doctor/GAP fabrics comparison (2018)
Outdoors, shade
Magnoli 10th Doctor/GAP fabrics comparison (2018)
Indoors, with flash
Magnoli 10th Doctor/GAP fabrics comparison (2018)
Indoors, no flash


It's still decent replica fabric (and the best option I know of currently on the market), but as you can see, the color fidelity leaves something to be desired ... 

That said, if it were too dark, we'd be screwed, but fortunately (in our case), the fabric is too light, meaning that it can be dyed darker, and closer to the original GAP colors!


So I decided to go to work, launching another series of dye experiments in an attempt to shift the updated Magnoli fabric closer to the GAP colors. It might not look it, but it's really almost there, already; it only needs a little nudge!
10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiments with Magnoli fabric

NOTE: The fabric-dyeing techniques I use, I learned from my friend Michael Cowart, whose experience in this field far outweighs my own, and from a fantastic book entitled Synthetic Dyes for Natural Fibers by Linda Knutson, which he recommended to me and I now recommend to you, if you're interested in "properly" dyeing fabric! 

Synthetic Dyes for Natural Fibers by Linda Knutson

Being 100% cotton, the Magnoli fabric requires fiber-reactive dye, and my first strategy was to hit it with a "primary" (single-pigment) dye, both for the sake of simplicity and maximum amount of control over the end result.

I started with Dharma Trading Company's PR23 "Cerulean," doing three initial tests to get an idea of how much blue might be required to darken the fabric. Obviously, not much! 

(The following photos were all photographed outdoors on a sunny day, unless otherwise noted.)

10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric
10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric
10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric

Clearly, the cerulean darkened the brown base just like I was hoping it would, but I wasn't going to achieve a good match using only blue, so I decided to hit it with a little bit of red to see what would happen - Dharma's PR13 "Fuchsia Red" (again, a "primary"/single-pigment dye). 

Obviously, even a very small amount was overkill!

10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric
10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric


Well, unfortunately neither blue or red would get me there on their own, but both rounds of initial tests had provided me with valuable information; it seemed a combination of the two colors might yield some better results, so I performed a brief series of tests, experimenting with the proportions.

10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric
10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric
10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric
10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric


As you can see, now I was starting to really get somewhere! 

But unfortunately, even a combination of blue and red didn't seem enough to really bring the Magnoli fabric as close to the original GAP colors as I'd have liked; I'd have to bust out the big guns with a triple-color custom mix by adding a little yellow - Dharma's PR1 "Lemon Yellow" (again, a "primary"/single-pigment dye).

Believing the latter experiment to be the closest, I scaled back the red a bit and injected a bit of yellow instead.

10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric


Already, things were looking better! But it needed a bit more ...

10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric


... and a bit more ...

10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric


I liked this particular formula, but as you can see, as I "diluted" the blue with red and especially yellow, the results grew less and less dark. 

Even bumping the depth-of-shade up to 0.3% was a noticeable improvement.

10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric


Now here's where things started to get a bit more nebulous and problematic. 

The original GAP trousers fabric is obviously brown and blue, but more specifically, the brown is kind of a greenish brown, and the blue pinstripes have just a tinge of lavender to them. 

At this point in my dye experiments, I felt the brown base needed a bit more yellow to produce that greenish (GAP) brown, so I injected a bit more yellow into the mix.

10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric
10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric


As you can see, adding more yellow to the mix resulted in a damn good color-match between the browns, but it had the "side effect" of turning the blue pinstripes too green! 

So, I scaled the yellow back a bit and increased the red in an attempt to give those pinstripes that lavender tinge I mentioned before.

10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric


Obviously, that was overkill, but I hadn't much wiggle room in any direction before I was back to where I'd left off before, so I tried again at a higher depth-of-shade.

10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric


I was pretty sure I had a winner, but I did one more test at a slightly higher depth-of-shade, just to be sure.

10th Doctor brown suit fabric dye experiment with Magnoli fabric


Yep, too much.



So, backing up to the penultimate test, I'm comfortable calling it a winner! 

It's not perfect, but it's really, really close to the original GAP trousers' colors. 

The brown base should be a bit greener (re: more yellow), but as you saw above, hitting it with more yellow turned the pinstripes too green. 

On the other hand, the stripes should have a slightly more of a lavender "tinge" to them (re: more red), but hitting it with more red steered that brown base away from the greenish zone. 

I believe this formula to be the best compromise between the two colors, and the closest balanced match of both. (In other words, we could achieve one color or the other, but not both; this way, both may not be quite perfect, but they're as close as I can manage without knocking the other too far off course.) 

That said, it's really, really close. And I do mean close.

Dyeing Magnoli 10th Doctor brown fabric to original GAP colors
Dyeing Magnoli 10th Doctor brown fabric to original GAP colors


Here are a couple indoor color comparisons, with flash.

Dyeing Magnoli 10th Doctor brown fabric to original GAP colors
Dyeing Magnoli 10th Doctor brown fabric to original GAP colors


And here are a couple direct comparisons between my dyed fabric and the original GAP swatch:

Dyeing Magnoli 10th Doctor brown fabric to original GAP colors
Outdoors, no flash
Dyeing Magnoli 10th Doctor brown fabric to original GAP colors
Indoors, with flash

Frankly, in normal interior lighting, the two are almost indistinguishable!

Dyeing Magnoli 10th Doctor brown fabric to original GAP colors


So that's the dye formula I recommend! 

All of those dyes, as well as other necessary supplies (synthrapol and soda ash fixative) can be ordered on Dharma's web site: 


I hope you found this helpful, and if you give it a shot, I'd love to hear about it!

Between this and my previous blog post about matching the GAP trousers waistband fabric, you should be all set for a kickass replica suit!

Stay tuned here on the blog (or, better yet, subscribe to my "Costume Guide" e-mail newsletter - upper right corner) for more regarding 10th Doctor suit projects, as well as upcoming 11th Doctor waistcoat patterns and sewing tutorials!